Sunday, September 11, 2011

Life Before Quilting - The Philippines & East Africa


~ You honor the life that has been given you by 
remembering and telling your stories. ~    

Robin Moore's "Awakening the Hidden Storyteller"


What in the world did I do before I discovered quilting and quilt history?


I was digging through an box of old albums recently that I put together long ago and thought I would share some of the photos with you.

I think I was born a documenter. My siblings did not make scrapbooks and photo albums like I did as a teen-ager, though my sister does today. Nor did they write letters like I did.  It's just what I have always done. I wrote volumes home to my friends the year and a half we lived on the Island of Panay, The Philippines and then, after one year of college, in Tanzania with my parents and siblings. I even illustrated some of my letters with sketches using colored pencils. My friends faithfully saved these letters at my request.

Here are a few highlights from those early years.  (Click on photos to enlarge.)




The Biedler* and Gonzaga family Christmas 1959. My friend Daday and I on the left. The high sleeves of our dresses are called butterfly sleeves. To read more about this type of dress, click here.  This family eventually moved to southern Ohio. We a big reunion in 1984 where we all got together with our mates and children and once again sang together like we used to do at gatherings at their home on Panay.




Dr. Eduardo Gonzaga and his wife Anita were both graduates of American universities.  Dr. Ed was an an eye surgeon and the President of the Board of Central Philippine University at the time. Auntie, as we called her, was a musician and soloist as well as mother of six.  They were a wonderful couple and made sure we Biedlers had many wonderful and unique (for us) experiences in our 18 months on Panay. One of the most memorable was spending a week at the Sarabia Fish Ponds on the island of Negros, sleeping in nipa huts, riding carabao and getting up in the middle of the night to help net fish in the fish ponds!  We also hiked back into the mountains to where their extended family had hidden during the Japanese occupation during WWII.


Above: Faculty and friends from Iloilo School of Arts & Trades

My mother and father in the middle, my sister front far left, and my youngest brother in the front. One of my mother's many dinner parties. She loved to throw dinner parties from the age of 16 on! She went to work for a college in Texas after we all left home and adopted all the Filipino students (and then some!) and continued to cook Filipino dishes.  She would do the same after we lived in Tanzania, East Africa and she learned to make curry and serve it HER style. We all love curry to this day---as well as chicken adobo, pancit, lumps, fried bananas, mango cutneys, you name it! …Yummy! Check out https://www.thrillist.com/eat/nation/filipino-food-for-beginners-thrillist-nation

Our family with the Gonzaga family visiting Negros Island

My Love of History and Geography Came to Life


I had always had an affinity for history and geography from about age 10 on. Now as our family traveled the world to and from The Philippines, history came alive before my eyes. WWII came to life as I heard stories from those who had personally lived through the Japanese occupation of The Philippines. As we family-camped across Europe on our way home the summer of 1960, we even saw remnants of some of the devastating bombing that the Allies had imposed upon Germany.

We also saw wonderful museums, ruins of ancient historic cities, and visited people in their homes. Ahh, so many stories!  When it came time to find a camping site for the night, Dad loved to knock on a farmer's door and ask if we could camp for the night somewhere around the farm. In return, he offered the labor of himself and his two sons for the evening and/or morning chores.

Being exposed to so many different cultures during my teens also introduced me to a great diversity of design and crafts, especially in The Philippines. I still have several yards of handwoven jusi from the Island of Panay as well as the barong that my youngest brother wore. This link to jusi doesn't adequately describe the lovely silk-looking fabric that I remember and still have several yards of.

Here is a group of photos I just dug out and scanned that show the various kinds of outfits my sister and I wore on special occasions in The Philippines. Here is a link to a lovely YouTube slide show of gorgeous traditional Filipino national dress.  Here is another link about some of the uniqueness of the some of the peoples on Panay Island among the Visayans.

With a friend at school.



My sister and I with a group of school friends.


Another interesting experience my sister and I had was being invited to take part in a fashion show. I don't remember now what group organized but it wasn't the school. We were asked to model a Western wedding party to contrast it with a traditional Philippine wedding party.



Here I model my own Filipino dress. I later wore this dress to my Junior Prom....minus the sleeves.

Same dress above that I wore at the Filipino fashion show, minus the butterfly sleeves.


Mother's blue dress was also made for her while we were living in The Philippines.



This is another dress made for Mother in the Philippines but she re-made it for my senior winter
formal but belled the skirt.  It was a very nice touch. The fabrics for both the blue dress and the red dress were woven in The Philippines, as was my red and silver shawl.





Traveling Home from The Philippines Summer  1960

The last 3 months of our first overseas sojourn were spent visiting some 19 countries on our way home across Asia, the Middle East and Europe.  We even road camels around the pyramids in Egypt....in "pencil skirts" no less because it wasn't deemed "socially appropriate" for women to wear slacks publically at that time.  (Just try riding a swaying camel in a pencil skirt, trying to keep your knees together!)

Ever since living in and traveling to such fascinating places at such an impressionable age, I have found keeping track of world news as natural as reading about what is going on in the next community down the road or the next State. 

Camping across Europe and the British Isles for almost 2 months as a 16 year old made history come alive and it was soon enough after WWII that we actually still saw bombed out buildings in several cities. My father loved trying to give us as many different kinds of experiences as he could with the country folk wherever we traveled in Europe. Instead of always staying in designated camp grounds, he would stop and knock on a farm-house door and ask if we could camp in their barnyard overnight in exchange for helping with the evening chores.  We were never refused!

I kept a journal in those days and wrote many letters and postcards home. Alas, most of my letters and postcard collection were "lost" when my folks divorced soon after I moved to California to finish school. I don't think the folks meant to throw my things away, but I wasn't there to rescue my "stuff" as they divided the household. Some of it survived and caught up with me later in life and some of it didn't.  I have always regretted the lost letters and journals.



Double click to enlarge so that you can read this article.
My parents were educators so the local community paper decided to do a series (above) on our travels as we headed home in 1960.

East Africa - 1963-1964

As I left for college in 1962 my parents left for East Africa.  After my first year of college we four children joined them for one year, 1963-1964.

The area today known as Tanzania became a German colony called Tanganyika in 1884 while the Sultanate of Zanzibar became a British Protectorate in 1890. Tanganyika became a British mandated territory in 1918 and achieved independence in 1961. In 1963 Zanzibar achieved independence, and a year later formed a union with Tanganyika under the new name of Tanzania.

During our year in Africa Kennedy was assassinated in November of 1963; Tanganyika united with Zanzibar and became Tanzania in January 1964; and two weeks later a portion of the army and police force of Tanzania revolted.




(above) The Dar-es-Salaam/Tanzania news photographer just happened to catch our family on the left side of the church at the Kennedy memorial service in November 1963. (Click on the photo and you can see I have circled the five of us.)  Only Mom is missing as she was unable to be there.


Experiencing an attempted coup d'état at âge 19

The Embassy personnel woke me at 6 a.m. with a phone call at the home where I was caring for two small American children while their parents were on vacation in South Africa. (The father of this family was 2nd in command of USAID in East Africa.) 

A coup d'état was in progress, the Embassy warned me. I was to keep the doors and windows barred, let no one in and to pack suitcases for the three of us. As soon as the Embassy gave me the signal, I was to jump in the car with the two kids and flee a mile down the road to the nearest American residence and stay put. Once I hung up the phone, I could hear guns firing and see soldiers surrounding the house across the street.  The Embassy called me every hour on the hour all day. I kept tabs on what was going on in the city by turning on Voice of America that was broadcasting out of West Africa.  At 6 p.m. I finally got the all clear signal to hop in the car and head down the road where I holed up with two other American families for the next two days.

This was the same House/ Family where a big long black snake slithered in in thru an open window and up the wall of the living room during the two weeks I was caring for the 5 & 7 year olds. I called the nearest American household and their 21 year old son hopped in the car and came up the road to help me get the snake out of the house.



                                      
                                      Car loaded and ready to roll for our camping trip across the Serengeti spring 1964.

















Many, many more stories….like the night our father decided to attempt to "crash" a diplomatic party at the Presidential Palace when the President of The Philippines, Carlos Garcia, was visiting President Julius Nyerere, the first President of Tanzania.

We had driven to the National airport on the edge of Dar-es-Salaam as a family -- all dressed up, we women in our Filipina national dresses and the men in their Barong Tagalogs.  (We four kids had had no idea mother had brought our Filipino clothing with her to Africa!)

Dad had the flags of both countries flying at the corners of our VW van so we looked very "official" and pulled right in line behind the last official car in the motorcade as it left the airport. When we reached the official Presidential residence (The State House), we were directed right onto the grounds along with everyone else without anyone stopping the car to check our IDs.

The White House (Ikulu), also known in English as the State House

Dad just happened to personally know one of the Cabinet Ministers in the PI Presidential entourage and wanted one of us kids to try to get a note to him just for the fun of it!!  (I remembered the gentleman and his wife from having had a family dinner with them in Manila in 1960 before we left on the return home journey to the States.) My brother Dan and I volunteered to be the guinea pigs. I don't recall what my brother and I said to each other as we  approached the front door of the Presidential State House, but we surely must have known our goose would be cooked when they discovered we didn't have an official invitation.

Long story short, they were very gracious to us. After they discovered why we were there and that we weren't on the guest list, they ushered us into a small sitting room, took our message and Dad's card  and left. About 20 or so minutes later, they came back to give us Dr. Bernedino's return message. To this day, I always wonder if they checked us out with the American Embassy FIRST before they took that note up to the party. I am sure the American Ambassador would have been present at the party also! (Luckily, I had cared for his two daughters once for a week at the Embassy residence when he and his wife were out of town on vacation, so he would have known Dad's name!)

Brothers Dan and John help launch a dhow


There are also the stories of sailing up the coast of Tanzania with my brothers in our little 18 foot boat; working in a small jetty on the wharf in Dar-es-Salaam while doing contract research (Cool job!) by pouring over ancient merchants' logs of "goods" shipped up and down the coast on Arab dhows since the late 1800s; staying at the American Ambassador's residence for a week (while the Ambassador and his wife were away) to watch over their two daughters and being waited on hand and foot, including being chauffeured around town on my errands; camping across the Serengeti with my parents and sibs (no commercial safaris for my father!) and seeing vast herds of wild animals on the move with prides of lion in their wake!



1963-64 was one of the most unforgettable years of my life.  



I'll also never forget seeing the movie Lawrence of Arabia while living in East Africa and many years later being flooded with memories as I watched Out of Africa.

The "roads" were always a bit "iffy" up-country.


Setting up a tent in a strong wind is always a bit "iffy" too! This happened to us many times while camping in Europe in 1960 also. One time as a storm approached, the wind go so wild that we four kids simply held onto the tent and all jumped into the VW Bus at once.








Saying good-bye (above) to a group of students at the Chang'ombe Teacher-Training College 

in Dar-es-Salaam. They were heading for studies in the USA.




Fabric my mother brought back from East Africa.






Somewhere in my siblings' stuff are several more pieces of the bright colorful fabrics my mother purchased in the African market place. I can find only one example in my fabric stash. At that time it didn't occur to me to track down where the fabric was actually manufactured but I am pretty sure it was not East Africa; probably England or India.

There a large number of emigres from India living in East Africa at the time as well. It was in Tanzania that I had a sari made and wore it on festive occasions. Alas, I have none of my Filipino costumes or my sari anymore to show my daughters or granddaughter. (Why and when  I gave them away is another colorful chapter in the story of my life.)  But we can't keep everything, can we, or STUFF takes over our lives completely.

Hope you enjoyed this walk down memory lane with me.  It brought back a lot of memories!

Peace, joy and a sense of adventure to you in your daily exploration of life,

Karen

PS: Added note 2015

In 2006 I signed up for a Textile Study Tour to France with Deb Roberts. One of the highlights of this tour was seeing shelves and shelves of huge swatch books that dated from the early 1700s to 1900. It was very interesting to see the swatches/designs influenced by African trade. These cotton fabrics were produced in Europe and sold to Africa. I highly recommend Deb Robert's tours. Read more here about one of my trips.


(*Our family name was originally Beutler/Beidler and is still pronounced as though it was spelled Beidler. Don't know why our branch changed it to Biedler after the Civil War.)



Saturday, September 3, 2011

Colville Washington Signature Quilt

--



I recently purchased a Signature quilt in Fife, WA that appears to be part of Colville, Washinton history. The quilt consists of 30 blocks. The center block says Colville Chapter - 514 W.O.T.M. - Jan 26. 1934. There are 29 embroidered signatures, one on each of the other 29 blocks.


At the moment, I suspect that W.O.T.M stands for Women Of The Moose. According to their website, the Moose organization is a fraternal order first founded in the late 1800s but "reinvented" about 1906 to "provide protection and security for a largely working-class membership" in case the bread winner died, i.e. the husband.

The women's auxiliary was formed in 1913. The focus of the group changed a bit after WWII. There are still many active chapters across the US today. I am in the process of trying to track down whether or not there was once a chapter in Colville, Washington.

Some of the embroidery on the quilt is difficult to read so the spelling of the names on the quilt are subject to interpretation.

The names are as follows: Ruth Harner, Julia Pool, Grace Wennmans, Mrs. Bloom, Ena Miller Boletta M. Elwood, Mrs. Sarah Lewis, Olive Vine, Annie Skeels, Maud D. Moser, Madge Dunham, C. M. Clark, Lillian Carman, Mrs. W. H. Hoeft, Flora Carman, Ethel Thomas, Emma Nelson, Evelyn Bennett, Alice Knapp, Claire Curry, Mary Anderson, Dora Campbell, Edna Moore, Susie L. Noble, Jeanie Nugent, Carrie Carman, Lena Artman, Lena Montgomery, and Mrs. Benedict.


The earliest published version of this pattern that Barbara Brackman could find is called CRACKERS-#2380 and can be found of page 300 of her book Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns. Barbara states that it appeared in Woman's World in 1931.


I would love to be able to document any information about the women listed on this quilt and discover why the quilt was made. If you recognize any of the names or can help shed light on this quilt's history, please email me.

I look forward to hearing from some of you!

Karen Alexander




PS:  Colville is a city in Stevens County, Washington, and is the county seat. The population was 1,803 in 1930 and then only 4,988 at the 2000 census. In 1825 the Hudson's Bay Company established Fort Colville near the Kettle Falls fur trading site and named for Lord Andrew Colville, a London governor of Hudson's Bay Company. 

Eventually the Oregon boundary dispute arose as a result of competing British and American claims to the Pacific Northwest of North America in the first half of the 19th century. Once the boundary was set at the 49th parallel in 1846 and Washington Territory officially separated from the Oregon territory in 1853, Hudson's Bay Company, being a British company, withdrew from Fort Colville and moved to Canada. 

In 1859, the US Army, at the direction of the War Department, established a new Fort Colville about 1.5 miles NE of the current city of Colville. That fort was abandoned in 1882 and the city was moved to the present location on the Colville River Valley.

The post was called Harney's Depot at first, then Fort Colville. The town of Colville was founded in 1882 when Fort Colville was abandoned.  

As an aside, while trying to trace down Colville, Washington, I discovered there is a Native American Reservation of this name in the southeastern section of Okanogan County and the southern half of Ferry County.

The Stevens  County Museum houses a very extensive collection of native American artifacts of tribes from all parts of the nation as well as all local tribes. 



Monday, August 29, 2011

Update on the Acanthus Design Source




Reading the Wall Street Journal daily doesn't usually generate a lot of excitement, although I must admit I always find something each day that intrigues me. And my reading definitely educates me about the present craziness in the world markets! Why else does one read read a particular magazine or newspaper so faithfully?  "Meat" or entertainment, right?

Today I let out a "whoop" that shot my husband's head up to attention. "What, What?!" he questioned.

"I've discovered another thread of history about the design of the acanthus plant on the antique quilt I bought a couple of months ago."

"Oh, ... ."

Ok, so my discovery isn't so exciting to someone who doesn't track down design sources found on quilts.

Nevertheless, he does understand my excitement for it is another piece of the puzzle in my research on this particular Four-Block acanthus quilt that I wrote about in this blog in June! Click here to see the earlier post about this quilt.




Christain Sahner, a Rhodes Scholar and doctoral candidate in history, writes in the first paragraph of his article "Temple of the 'Bride of the Desert,'"





Each night at sunset, the "bride of the desert," as she has been known for centuries, gets dressed for her wedding. In those last moments of daylight, she dons a robe of stunning colors—the buttery yellow of her limestone columns mixing with the blue shadows of her temples and the soft pinks of the desert floor. It is a scene that has inspired countless cultural suitors over the centuries, from Persians and Romans to Georgian Britons and Arab Nationalists. But could a new suitor materialize out of the current turmoil in Syria?


Powerful imagery!

James Dawkins and Robert Wood Discovering the Ruins of Palmyra - painted 1758,
 National Gallery of Scotland















Sahner goes on to write:


First settled in the third millennium B.C., the city made her fortunes as a trading depot. Silk, Palmyra's prized commodity, began its westward journey at the Indian port of Barbaricon, passing by boat to Seleucia and Babylon, before traveling by caravan to Palmyra, and then on to the Mediterranean coast.
Now he really had my attention because I like to weave the fascinating stories about ancient trade routes and the economic history of cotton into my lectures on the history of quilting.

The temple above was constructed around the turn of the first millennium A.D. and still dominates Palmyra and the modern city of Tadmor.  What caught my eye was the freeze along the top of the temples portico.


There was the acanthus plant again!  Sahner writes:

On the north side, there is a much-eroded zodiac motif, set within a detailed coffered ceiling. 


On the south side, a large acanthus medallion sprouts amid a field of stone rosettes, as delicate as on the day they were first chiseled. In the late 18th century, these designs found their way into the parlors of posh English homes, thanks to the sketches of the antiquarians James Dawkins and Robert Wood, who visited Palmyra in 1751.



This doesn't mean the design may not have been there earlier on some object imported from the Middle East, but here was a direct reference to this design being brought into England by two named individuals!

Compare it to the quilt's applique pattern once more.



Next: an update on the visit of Cathy and John Miller to Lopez Island and the quilt history Cathy sets to music and my visit to the Pacific West Quilt Show in Tacoma, Washington.

Cheers!

Karen Alexander




Wednesday, August 17, 2011

The Singing Quilter - Cathy Miller


In Concert with Cathy Miller 

Listen to Women's History set to Music 


at the Lopez Center for Community and the Arts!!





Come visit us on Lopez Island 
following the Pacific West Quilt Show in Tacoma!

Canadian singer/songwriter/storyteller Cathy Miller will be performing at the Lopez Island Community Center for the Arts, Sunday, August 28 at 4 pm. This program is sure to entertain and inspire both young and old, quilters and non-quilters alike.
 
Cathy used to be a folksinger with a slightly jazzy bent. She performed at folk festivals, clubs and house concerts all across Canada and released five CDs of her music. That was before quilting.
 
In 1991 Cathy was hired to write music for a play about quilting.  As part of her research, she took a class ­ and the rest, as they say, is history.  She now devotes her entire career to researching and writing songs about this fascinating art.  Why? Because often embedded in quilts, there are important human stories about love, death, immigration, hope, and community.  Cathy realized that no one was capturing these stories in song. She was uniquely qualified to take on this task.




Cathy is a stickler for detail. For her song A Quilt & A Kettle about the Oregon Trail experience of pioneer Rachel Bond, she worked with Portland/Lopez quilt historian Mary Bywater Cross to refine her wording. Cathy¹s husband, John Bunge accompanies her. He is a former member of The Gumboots from Yellowknife, a folk group that first formed in 1984 and performed both traditional Canadian folk songs and original songs about the North. 


Cathy is known for upbeat performances, which have made her an event favorite.  Cathy and John are a unique couple, traveling  the world, singing about the life of contemporary quilt makers as well as historic quilts. Cathy released her first CD of 12 quilt story songs, One Stitch at a Time, in September of 2000.
  The tales surrounding a quilt¹s history can be fascinating, and frequently tell a tale of women's lives and community life that don't often make it into the history books. Cathy delights in finding and writing songs about unusual and wonderful stories woven into quilts.





For her Lopez concert, Cathy will be performing songs that relate to World War II, western migration and other themes. The songs range from the historical, through the poignant, to the drop-dead funny!

Quilts will frame the concert setting, including several of Mary Bywater Cross’s woolen quilts. Mary's quilts will be available later on the Studio Tour. Featured will be the new Lopez Island Signature Quilt from the Lopez Island Historical Society. This visual record of island residents is the quilt style that leads creative minds like Cathy’s to write her songs. We’re eager to share it with her and the island community.

Please come and join us for a special late afternoon concert of stories set to music!


Karen B. Alexander

"You honor the life that has been given you by remembering and telling your stories."
Robin Moore's "Awakening the Hidden Storyteller"

My Blogs:

Quilt History Reports
http://karenquilt.blogspot.com/

Honorees of The Quilters Hall of Fame
http://thequiltershalloffame.blogspot.com/

Enchanted Quilters of Lopez Island
http://enchantedquiltersoflopezisland.blogspot.com/




Monday, June 20, 2011

Smocks is no longer smocks, they are shocks.





It is so entertaining to read the descriptions by earlier generations of women's fashions. 

I am writing this post simply because my attention was caught one day by the look of a worker's smock on a U.K. history website. (See first photo below.)

Source: http://www.reading.ac.uk/merl/the_collections/the_museum/smocks.html





The above photo of a farmer in a "smock" reminded me very much of a photo in our family archives. I immediately went digging and wa-la.....my grandmother in a very similar frock in 1921 shortly after my mother was born, only her smock is belted.

                                        
(Left, my grandparents Crystal [nee Pauley] Peebles and Robert Peebles with my mother Elizabeth (Betty) Peebles, almost spring 1921, Miami, WVA.)


Below is one image I found that very much resembles my grandmother's dress.

Source: http://www.fashion-era.com/visitor_pages/1917_shay_visitor.htm


Here is the American version of the British gentleman's smocked outfit I started with.




Above is amid-19th century smock from the Sturbridge Village collection.  

Source: http://www.lexingtonminutemen.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=section&layout=blog&id=12&Itemid=68

Then I got curious about the style and googled around until I stumbled across the article below. The transcription follows the photo of the article.

So, do you think the "designer" of the dress my grandmother has on was inspired by the farmer's garment?  Truth be told, howver, her dress is, unfortunately, not smocked.



                                         


Of Interest to Women
By MAROARRT MASON
(written for the United Press)

Dame Fashion knits a soldier's stocking: 

With the yarn that's left she does her
smocking.

Now don’t you think this very shocking? 

NEW YORK. July 15, 1916. 

Perhaps along Ellis Parker Butler's line of reasoning that "Pigs is Pigs," you think that "smocks is smocks." But you are wrong. Smocks is no longer smocks. They are shocks. There is a new hybrid race, flock or swarm of them in a tiny little box of a shop on Fifth avenue. It offers hats, too, but the smocks are the real curios.

They are not any of them what you would expect a well regulated smock to be. Each one is rather the embodiment of a wild flight of fancy, to put it mildly.

They start out all right and proper in linen, pongee, crepe or cretonne but then comes the funny business. Some of them are appliquéd in a mad hit or miss riot of gay, colored linen disks outline-stitched with yarn. Others are patched in crazy quilt fashion and feather stitched with yarn. Always there is yarn, yarn, yarn in some of every color, stitch or fashion. 

Some of the more decorous smocks have cut out patterns of the cretonne, baskets of flowers, birds or beasts appliqued at intervals around the skirt or on the pockets, and yet others have yarn crocheted scallops around the collar, cuffs and pockets. One of black satine is broken out so rashly in cart-sized and varicolored appliqued disks that it looks like a futurist companion piece to "A Nude Descending the Stairs." There are also some new sweaters or blazers quite as new as the smocks, but not quite so wierd. However, they put to shame for very stripedness both the zebra and the Sing-Sing habitant.

These striped sweater coats worn with the one-toned corduroy or linen skirt are a sort of vice versa flipflop or fashion from the one toned sweaters worn with awning striped skirts that were so omnipresent at the beginning of the season.

Although the stripes are riotous in their color effects, they are not so without rhyme or reason by any means. They are striped in regimental colors, and each daughter of the regi- ment may express by her coat of many colors her regimental preference. 

For the patriotic preparedness person there are the stripes of red, white and blue, and her sentiments as well as her figure may thus be embodied in her garment. Regimental colors are a deal more exclusive, however, and express a preference not quite so broad and promiscuous. Worn with white skirts these gray striped sweater coats are particularly stunning, and there also are accompanying accoutrements of hats and parasols striped to match.

The expression “Oh, she is that stripe,” hereby gathers a new meaning and the regimental sweater offers, as well as warmth and adornment, a delightful modern method of wearing your heart on your sleeve by wearing instead HIS stripes.

Verily, no regiment would fail to present arms to such color bearers.

Now wouldn't you just love to see some examples of those " appliquéd in a mad hit or miss riot of gay, colored linen disks outline-stitched with yarn. Others are patched in crazy quilt fashion and feather stitched with yarn. Always there is yarn, yarn, yarn in some of every color, stitch or fashion"?!

~~~~

I can sure tell I don't know a whole lot about the history of dress design! It took forever to find that plaid dress image that resembles my grandmotehr's dress.  Do check out the link for the plaid dress for some background for the era 1914-1920 in "ordinary" women's dresses.

Happy hunting to you in whatever kind of collecting or research you do!

Karen










Friday, June 17, 2011

Acanthus Plant - New Pattern Added to my Collection


Another Unusual Find

I had never seen this broad-leaf pattern (below) on a quilt prior to my find on eBay December 2010.This is a Four-Block quilt.




I am assuming the tan was once green but I can find no real evidence of it.  Even where the loose fabric enables me to get under the tan, there is no appearance of the green left.




The fact that the red has worn so unevenly makes me wonder if the red wasn't from two different dye lots.  Seems strange that some leaves held-up so well and others did not.





Below is a photo of a Corithn column with two ranks of stylized acanthus leaves.  Is that what this leaf is -- an interpretation of the acanthus plant?





Below is the leaf on the quilt side-by side with a large acanthus leaf.





Here are four different architectural variations of the acanthus in 
various periods of history.






You will often see this pattern in Moulded Ceilings as well. Click here to see some beautiful examples.




Below is another variation from a stair railing at the Hermitage in St. Petersburg.





And still another column.



So far I have found two legends about the plant but there are probably more.

Acanthus. The acanthus plant grows throughout much of the Mediterranean region. Its large leaves appear in many ancient sculptures, especially on top of columns in the Greek style called Corinthian. Legends says that after a young girl's death, her nurse placed her possessions in a basket near her tomb. An acanthus plant grew around the basket and enclosed it. One day the sculptor Callimachus noticed this arrangement and was inspired to design the column ornament.
 http://www.mythencyclopedia.com/Pa-Pr/Plants-in-Mythology.html




As seen on a green wedgewood teapot.


From Wikipedia:


Acantha (Greek: Ἀκάνθα, English translation: "thorny") was a minor character in Greek mythology. She was a nymph loved by Apollo, the sun god. In one version of the story, Acantha refused Apollo's advances and scratched his face when he tried to rape her. Apollo then turned her into an acanthus plant.[1] Another version features Acantha as a mortal man who returned Apollo's advances.[2] The matter of Acantha's identity is further confused by the fact that the acanthus plant is not a tree, but a shrub or bush, and therefore is unlikely to have had a nymph associated with it. This may simply indicate that it was perceived to be a tree at the time the myth was created.





Here you see the use of this plant's pattern in clothing.






The little nine patch checkerboard at the intersections of the four blocks is a nice touch.












A second acanthus quilt pattern appears within 6 months!


Now came the real surprsie. I found another quilt made of this pattern just this week! It has the very same over-all loss of the green coloring to that same creamy tan!  They came from opposite coasts of the country. Oh how I wish there was some history of the source of these two pieces! Is it possible the two women knew each other and shared the pattern?




When I first spotted this  quilt I thought it had stains.Upon closer look, however, what looks like stains in this photo are actually those same "tan-looking" leaves.











I'd appreciate from hearing from anyone who has a photo of a quilt similar to this pattern or knows of a published source for this pattern.



UPDATE: Tim Latimer of Tim Latimer Quilts, etc sent me a link to another Acanthus plant whose leaf looks even more like this quilt's pattern! (Be sure to check out Tim's gorgeous quilting!)



Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Macleaya_microcarpa_Habitus_BotGardBln0906b.jpg








PS: August 29, 2011

See an update to this design inspired by the acanthus plant by clicking here http://karenquilt.blogspot.com/2013/08/ancient-quilt-designs-from-ephesus.html.  


Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Will Red & White Spark the Next Revival?


An Important 40th Anniversary in Quilt History


Jonathan Holstein and Gail van der Hoof - 1971


Just as the 1971 Holstein-van der Hoof quilt exhibit "Abstract Design in American Quilts" at the Whitney Museum of American Art in NYC kicked off the late 20th century quilt revival, the recent Red & White quilt exhibit “Infinite Variety: Three Centuries of Red and White Quilts” held in NYC at the Park Avenue Armory may go down in quilt history as the defining moment for the next revival of interest in quilts....or at the very least, interest in creation of Red & White quilts.


(click on photo to enlarge)




(click on the article to enlarge)

Here is a link to an additional story about the owner of the quilts in this exhibit.  Her husband asked her what she wanted for her 80th birthday and she said she wanted him to underwrite an exhibit of her red and white quilts and open it free to the public!



Below are two videos of the red and white exhibit with lovely music. Almost like being there!




Here is still another link that presents a short brochure which can be printed page by page.  Just click on the story lead next to the photo of the exhibit.

http://www.1stdibs.com/index.php?tsid=2164

I think Quilts in the Barn ahs the best set of photographs that I have yet seen.  Click here to view Linda's blog.  Click here for a flickr link to still more photos.

The exhibit design world has been almost as excited about this exhibit as we quilters have been.  http://www.metropolismag.com/pov/20110329/exhibition-design-in-the-app-age=


A RED & WHITE CHALLENGE

Author, designer, quilt teacher Pat Sloan has created a blog post archiving all the websites and blogs and news articles she has found as well of this exhibit.  Her blog is worth visiting and bookmarking for future stories in addition to a sense of immediate pleasure. 

Pat is also going to be issuing a 'Make a Red and White' Challenge in the near future.. so if you're anxious to make a Red and White quilt, be sure to keep track of her challenge on her blog.

You can also see a photo of Joanna Rose, owner of the Red & White quilts at the Park Avenue Armory exhibit on Pat's website.


Here is one quilter from Indiana who has already made her new Red & White quilt!  See story here.

photo by Rod Rowe

Clair Baker of Middlebury, Indiana, is pictured in front of her “vortex” quilt she made this
winter, with Nick Hoffman, former director of the Elkhart County Historical Museum.


You can see my two blogs about Red & White quilts in my collection here.




Enjoy!

Karen Alexander in the Islands

PS: Watch for an article on the 40th anniversary of the 1971 Whitney exhibit and Jonathan and Gail van der Hoof.